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Minggu, 08 Mei 2016

Look Build your own shed plans

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Jumat, 29 April 2016

Vacuum Adapter for Your Lathe

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Need another option for reverse turning?  A vacuum chuck could be your answer.  

Yes, there are other methods of reverse turning, but vacuum chucking allows you to hold natural edge pieces with ease.  The objects that can be held by vacuum chucking are endless and the best part is that its easily modified!

The following will spare you the learning curve I had and hopefully get you on your way quickly.  My lathe has a hollow spindle with a few cross-drilled holes.  This forced me to use a through spindle vacuum adapter instead of something like the Oneway Rotary Adapter.

If you are like me, youve spent a great deal of time studying online articles learning how to accomplish the task at hand.  Many designs rely on using a double sealed ball bearing as a component to be a vacuum seal.  I was skeptical of this, but moved forward in spite of my doubts.

For this system, you will need to buy or make an adapter for each side of your lathe.  One will fit on the outboard side and the other will match the morse taper of your spindle.  You will need two ball bearings.  I used a R10 and 6000 series bearings.  I would recommend double sealed bearings simply because of the dust that will be present .  The main aspect that drives bearing selection for this purpose is the size of pipe fittings you will use.  I had the R10 bearing on hand, so I had to use a 3/8 NPT fitting to adapt to this bearing. 

In addition to bearings, you will need:


  • material for your spindle adapters
  • an assortment of pipe fittings
  • all thread lamp tube (3/8" OD, 1/8-27 thread)
  • valve rated for vacuum
  • vacuum pump (well geez, I wouldnt have thought of that)
  • filter for your pump
  • vacuum gauge
  • tubing (size of pipe fittings)
  • pipe tape/pipe dope
  • epoxy
  • a bleeder valve is nice but not a must have
  • a muffler for the vacuum pump
  • electrical switch
  • wire nut
  • pliers and wire strippers
  • wranches (wrenches for those of you not from the south)
  • someone else to do all the work for you! (optional)
So, once youve assembled all of your loot, it may look something like this.



Vacuum Chucking

I started off by making the spindle adapter for the outboard side of my lathe.  I used Delrin for this piece because it is not porous, can be shaped by hand with wood turning chisels, and it was available.  Good reasons, I think.  The downside to Delrin is that its terribly difficult to permanently bond something to it.

The criteria for this part are as follows:
  • needs to fit onto lathe spindle without too much slop
  • hold bearing with slip/press fit
  • allows lamp rod to pass through it and clamp on an internal step
This sketch describes how this part works in the original design.

Here are the process photos of making the outboard side spindle adapter.

Vacuum Chucking
Rough turning spindle adapter
Vacuum Chucking
Ball bearing recess
Ebonizer, Finish
Flip it!
Vacuum Chucking
O.D. profiling
Vacuum Chucking
Sized to fit out board spindle
Vacuum Chucking
Finished bearing side of adapter

Now, lets move on to the inboard spindle adapter.  For this item you need to:
  • match taper of spindle
  • allow lamp rod to pass through 
  • make a surface for nut and washer to lock lamp rod in place 

Here are the process photos of making the inboard side spindle adapter.


Vacuum Chucking
Roughing inboard adapter
Vacuum Chucking
Turning recess
Vacuum Chucking
Test fit
Vacuum Chucking
Reducing O.D. of  adapter

You may have noticed that I switched lathes while making this piece.  I did this because my Nova G3 chuck doesnt have a large enough opening that I could push the spindle adapter into.  Using the Vicmarc 120, I was able to hold the spindle adapter on the larger diameter and form a recess for the washer and nut to sit in.

Well, the spindle adapter is wrapped up... for now.

The next thing to move on to is pipe fitting!  Oh what fun!  I wanted to use push to connect (PTC) style fittings for this system so that I could easily adapt the vacuum pump to be used for other applications in the shop.  While PTC fittings are not the answer for this application, this blog is a journey and youre invested, so lets see how things go.


Vacuum Chucking
Turning threads off fitting
Vacuum Chucking
Bearing, fitting, epoxy...  
Ebonizer, Finish
I didnt get epoxy on myself!
Vacuum Chucking
Remaining parts for system
Vacuum Chucking
Manifold components
Now with those parts all married, lets plug the suction end of the system and see what the vacuum gauge reads.  This is where my disappointment began.  For the pump to pull down more than 5" Hg, I had to push and hold the tubing into the PTC fittings...  That will be hard to do while Im turning.  In addition, the double sealed ball bearing was another leak.  In an effort to remove as many potential leaks as possible, I rethought the design of my spindle adapter and replaced the PTC fittings with compression fittings.

I started by removing the plastic PTC fitting I had all too recently epoxied into the ball bearing.  But first I needed to remove the ball bearing from the outboard spindle adapter.  This was easily done by putting a screw driver inside the fitting (through the bearing) and hitting it with a hammer (plastic, no one wants a cracked screw driver) a few times.  I then scuffed up the inner race of the bearing for the next fitting to be epoxied.

To remove the need for the seals of the ball bearing to hold vacuum, I changed the plumbing and affixed the lamp rod to the ball bearing with marine grade epoxy.  This involved a few extra steps, which are shown with pictures below.



Vacuum Chucking
Remove threads: 3/8 fitting
Vacuum Chucking
Cut off one side of 1/4 NPT 
Vacuum Chucking
Tap 1/4 NPT with 1/8-27 tap
Vacuum Chucking
All parts epoxied together


Now that Ive affixed the lamp rod and bearing, I need a ball bearing for the other spindle adapter.  By assembling the parts in this manner, I no longer need the "step" in the outboard spindle adapter.  However, there is no need to remove it or remake the part.


Vacuum Chucking
Size adapter to fit bearing
Vacuum Chucking
Replacement compression fittings
Vacuum Chucking
Testing new configuration

The last step is to attach the tubing from the pump to manifold and from the manifold to the spindle adapter.


Vacuum Chucking
Tube fitting for spindle adapter
Vacuum Chucking
Vacuum system!
Vacuum Chucking
Zip tie capacitor to keep it tidy

I recommend testing your system for leaks before you use it for turning.  A good way to do this is to plug or otherwise seal the open end of lamp rod, let the system pump down as far as it will go, and then valve off or turn off your pump to see what the leak rate is.  This system isnt for a particle accelerator, so no need to go overboard.  However, if the vacuum drops rapidly, you may want to look into it.  A good way to find leaks is to mix up some soapy water and apply it to each of the connection points.  You will see bubbles wherever there is a leak.  Just give the fitting a bit more oomph and retest.

I will soon post about building vacuum chucks.  I will be making my chucks completely from materials I have on hand and those commonly found at a big box hardware store!  No face plate required for the method I will use.  Once the holiday season is past, or once I catch up on my ornament orders (which ever is first), Ill make the vacuum chuck and finish off a platter!

Thanks for reading!  As always, if you have any questions or comments, dont hesitate to contact me.
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Senin, 18 April 2016

A New Heart for Big Blue

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While turning some 20" platters, I came to the realization that my beloved lathe needs a new heart. Not just any heart, a bigger, stronger, slower heart.  Slower?

Yes, a new motor was in order for my lathe.  The 2hp is good, but when turning large pieces at low speed, it lacks the torque needed.  So, here is where the dilemma begins.  My first thought was to get a 3 or 5hp motor with the same nameplate speed as my current/previous motor.  But, then I have to replace the VFD (brain) with a unit that can handle the increased amperage of the bigger motor.  AHHHHH!!!

Good thing I had more than one thought.  Not initially realizing that motors come in many different RPM ranges, I proposed my situation to my local surplus dealer.  He pointed to a LARGE 2hp motor that is a 870 RPM model.  While he didnt say it, I know he was thinking "Thats the one I tried to give you before."  DOH!!  

So why would I replace my existing 2hp motor with another 2hp motor?  The reason is due to the speed rating of each motor.  The original is rated at 1700 RPM, while the new one is a 870 RPM unit.  The hp rating of a motor is a result of RPM and amperage.  This means that the new motor (870 RPM) has twice the torque of other unit!  In addition to more torque, Im still retaining similar spindle speeds on the lathe by putting a larger pulley on the new motor.  If you cant tell, Im excited!  Below are the two motors side by side.  They seem to be playing nicely.


Well, thats the why.  Heres the how.

This motor came with a key already in the arbor.  I thought this was excellent until I had to remove it to accommodate the bushing and pulley style I used.  So, here is a quick tip in removing a stuck key.  DONT GET A BIGGER HAMMER!!!  I used a small plastic face hammer with a tiny screwdriver to try and pop the key out.  After not having instant success, I grabbed the penetrating oil.  I sprayed down the key and let it soak for a day.  The next morning I tried again without success.  Now I grabbed a pair of vice grips and a propane torch.  After applying heat for maybe a minute I grabbed the key with the vice grips and rapidly tapped the vice grips with the plastic faced hammer.  This lifted up the end of the key allowing me to use a small screw driver to pry the key out with little force.


Now on to attaching the pulley.  I bought a keyed H-bushing and pulley from surpluscenter.com, mainly because it was affordable and fit my needs.  


H-Bushing

Having not used this type of pulley before, I did the stupidest thing possible when I initially tried to marry the pulley to the motor.  I fully seated the bushing into the pulley and then fruitlessly tried to push the pulley onto the arbor.  It wasnt until this that I realized a H-bushing and pulley is tapered and not intended to be assembled in this manner.  Luckily, I was able to separate the bushing and pulley using the jack screw holes on the bushing.  


This time, I slid the pulley onto the arbor with the tapped holes facing away from the motor.  Next, I slid the bushing in snug to the pulley and pushed the key into place.  Now I used the provided screws to pull the bushing into the pulley until tight.  I didnt use a torque wrench, I just tightened until it seemed reasonable for the bolts provided.  


Its amazing how easily things work when you do it right...

Now to heave this beast onto the lathe.  Mind you, the "small" motor was 79 pounds.  The new motor is 120 pounds.  Thats heavy when you have to hold it 5 inches off the ground and hang it on a few bolts.  No, I dont have a hoist or anything that would have made this an easy task.  What fun!

Well, other than trowing some new belts on, this upgrade is wrapped up unless you want to hear about wiring...  Ok, ok, Ill tell you about wiring the motor.  Before I took the original motor off, I tested the new motor.  It is surplus after all, and wouldnt I have been ill if Id gone through all that work just to put the original motor back on.  So, basically you follow the diagram on the motor for wiring.  Use wire nuts and make sure you ground the thing.  Ok, done!  The heart transplant was a success!



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Minggu, 17 April 2016

Another game to play with your medieval chess board

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The start of a (fake) game of jeu de dames. A composition of margin illuminations of the 14th century manuscript Bodleian 264. Made by St. Thomasguild in 2014 using Photoshop. 

There is another medieval game that can be played on the medieval chess board which is called jeu de dames, but also known as draughts or checkers. The game borrows the game pieces from tables (i.e. backgammon / tric-trac) and uses the chequered board (hence the name checkers) from chess. It is believed to be derived from the game of Alquerque (described in the Libre de Los Juegos of Alphonso X the Wise in 1283), as the method of the jump-capture is identical. De game became known as the jeu de dames in France, and checkers or draughts (from to draw or to move) in England. The first mention of the name of the game is in the late 14th century in an English poem Sir Ferumbras. The game is believed to be common in medieval times and widely played.

& ioustes and tornyment: wel mo per wendep ofte pare.
do pat williep to leue at hame: pleyep to pe eschekkere,
& summe of hem to iew-de-dame; and summe to tablere.

(from Sir Ferumbras, 1380 Bodleian ASHMOLE Ms. 33)


A game of Alquerque as played in 1283, depicted in the Libre de los Juegos, folio 91v. 
Note that Alquerque is played with pawns, not the flat backgammon pieces.


But ....

There is a peculiarity about draughts. There are many other medieval board games, popular such as chess, or more obscure such as the game of the four seasons called the world or rithmomachia, but for all of these the rules are described in some medieval book. Not for draughts. The first rule book for draughts dates from the 16th century (Lorenzo Valls, 1597). Neither are there clear images of people playing draughts (see the post faulty medieval chess boards for some possible boards), i.e. an 8x8 board using two colours of tablemen on only one colour of the chequered board. When an incorrect draughts board is shown, the surrounding text usually mentions the play of chess.

Another tricky thing is that archaeological evidence is biased against draughts. A chequered board - that must be a chess board; a table men - that must be a backgammon piece. Perhaps if both were found at the same place it could count as proof for draughts. But then there are game boxes which often present both chess and backgammon boards at opposite sites. Thus archaeology can not provide solid proof, with chess pieces or backgammon boards lying around.

 Alquerque is still being played as a separate game in the 14th century. Margin illumination of Bodleian MS 264, folio 76r, Romance of Alexander, 1338-1344.

The same manuscript (Bodleian MS 264, folio 60r) has an illumination which - with much fantasy and adaptation - could be seen as medieval draughts. The board size is wrong, the game pieces look more or less the same as identical dots. All game pieces, with one exception, are on the same chequered (black) colour. This image was used as basis for the fake medieval draughts image at the top of this blogpost.

Thus the only proof for the existence of medieval draughts is based on the etymology of the names of the game and the gaming pieces, and the scanty mention of the game in medieval books. One draughts historian uses the etymological study of Dutch medieval terms, where 97% of the words kept the same meaning throughout history as proof that the jeu de dames is draughts, while on the other hand he off-handedly regards the differently named foreign terms marro, merelles, alquerque as identical to draughts. In my eyes this is a weak proof. Especially, since the jeu de dames is also used for hunting with female company during medieval times (Cy commence jeu de dames, in the Taymouth Hours (1325-1340)). A fact that the advocates of the medieval draughts theory seem to have overlooked. This makes me sceptical whether medieval draughts existed, and if, on the (lack of) popularity of it.


An (fake) end situation of medieval draughts. A promoted white dame can be seen on the second row below, being able to capture two opponents pieces. Photoshop alteration of the 11th century chess mosaic in the Basilica San Savino in Piacenza, Italy by St. Thomasguild 2014.


Playing medieval jeu de dames


 
The start position of a game of medieval draughts. It can be played on the black or the white squares. The chess board is from four season chess, described in 1283.


As mentioned above, no contemporary medieval rules for draughts exist. What follows is what is thought to be the medieval rules for playing.

  • Each player has 12 game pieces, put in three rows onto one (the same) colour of the 8x8 chequered board. This can be either the white or the black squares.
  • Capture is by leaping over a piece of an opponent to a vacant place. Multiple captures, when possible, are allowed.
  • Capture can only be diagonally forward.
  • Capture is not compulsory.
  • Movement is only diagonally forward.
  • Players roll a dice to decide who start the game.
  • When a game piece reaches the other side of the board it is promoted to a queen (dame).
  • The queen (or dame) moves like the medieval chess queen: only one place, diagonally forward or backward. 
  • The game is lost when a player cannot move or has no more game pieces on the board.

Some changes are thought to appear at the end of the 15th century in Spain: the introduction of the long move of the queen (i.e. like the modern chess bishop) as well as compulsory capture (of the most) on penalty of the huff. When a player forgot to capture a piece, his game piece could be huffed (taken from the board by blowing to it). In England, draughts became known as the game with the huff, and checkers the same game without the huff. The latter was seen as a childrens game. A few centuries later, the huff was again abolished. In the 16th century backward capture by the single pieces became possible. The 10x10 chequered board for draughts also appeared for the first time during this century (it already existed several centuries for decimal chess).

Arabic (medieval) draughts on an unchequered board uses 16 game pieces,
 which move forward and side-ways.

Sources used:

  • A. van der Stoep, 2001. Middeleeuws damspel, volgens de oude en volgens een nieuwe versie. In: Spelen in the Middeleeuwen. Edited by W.S. van Egmond and M. Mostert  Uitgeverij verloren, Hilversum, the Netherlands.
  • H.J. Murray, 1952. The history of board games other than chess. Oxford University Press.
  • A. van der Stoep. Webpage on the history of draughts.
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More cool things to do with your hood

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The hood is a common piece of clothing for the mid and late medieval period. It is also very comfortable to wear, especially when it gets chilly outside, like at the moment in the Netherlands...
The hood has a standard way of wearing, but in the late medieval period people started experimenting wearing the hood differently, resulting in foppish styles. These styles are nicely illustrated in one of the blogposts of Tacuinum medievale. Personally, I like (and sometimes wear)  style 6.

But there are more things you can do with a hood than wearing it. Some examples are shown in  the margins of manuscript Bodleian MS 264 (Oxford University, Oxford, UK).

1. Playing blind-man.


The hood is put on backwards, so it covers the eyes and creates a blindfold. The liripipe is hanging like an elephants trunk in front.
In Blind Mans Buff, the blinded man has to try to tag one of the other players, while the other players try to avoid him. The other players have to make sounds to indicate the direction the blindfolded player in which has to move in order to tag another player. The player who is tagged becomes the next blind man.
Another variant is where the blinded player is guided along a difficult track by the other players.
 
Bodleian MS 264 folio 70 verso. A blinded elephant man on the left. 

2. Throwing games.


A knot is made in the hood, approximately at the point where the liripipe is attached to the hood. This creates a heavier point, making the hood easier to throw. The liripipe is used to swing the hood for the throw. This game is played by both males and females.

Bodleian MS 264 folio 130 recto. Males playing the throwing game.



The illustrations suggest that the hoods should be thrown towards another, or at a blinded person. We have tried several versions of this game: throwing and catching (catching scores points); throwing and hitting each other (hitting another scores points) and just throwing (the one farthest throwing scores points). Throwing and hitting each other resulted in chaos, while throwing and catching was a bit more playful. Just throwing and throwing and hitting were boring, but the latter became better when one person was coaching the blind man when to duck to avoid being hit by a hood.

Bodleian MS 264 folio 130 verso. Females playing the throwing game. 

A variant of this game was developed by us (i.e. we can not relate it directly to an illumination), in which the players wore a felt hat, which needed to be thrown of the head with the hood. Each successful hit to the hat was rewarded with one point, while the game was played for a certain amount of points. We thought this was a better variant, as each player has equal opportunities to hit and being hit, and the game allowed a lot of interplay. 

 
 
 

3. Catching Butterflies.

We have not tried this yet, as the butterfly season is over at the moment. The hood is held closed at one end, and open at the other end to trap the butterflies. Although some woman look like trying to hit rather than catch the butterflies. This seems to be a more feminine type of game.

Bodleian MS 264 folio 135 recto (more examples a shown in the margins of MS 264)
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