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Rabu, 11 Mei 2016

How to Make Non Toxic Paste Wax

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Ive used plenty of paste wax in my wood working adventures and never worried about the ingredients until I started making utilitarian items. My finishes for bowls, cutting boards, or any other item to be used with food are solvent free and 100% natural.  I thought Id share a recipe for non-toxic paste wax.  The best part is its super easy and you get to melt stuff!
So heres the catch, you married men should first request clearance to the kitchen.  Well be melting wax in a double boiler on her stove top.  Godspeed.

Assuming you have permission to use the kitchen (I dont want any messages from angry wives, they scare me) you will need a few items.
  • A pot to boil water in (can be one of her pots as long as you have permission)
  • A metal container in which to blend your melted wax and oil (I used the same container for storage)
  • A heavy duty grater (seriously, dont use the cheese grater you got as a wedding present)
  • Bees Wax
  • Carnuba Wax
  • Tung Oil / Walnut Oil
  • 1/3 cup measuring cup
  • The most important item!  Pliers or vise grips to remove the mixture with.
  • Something to stir with.  Non melty is a plus!
All Natural, Non-Toxic Paste Wax

The least fun part of this project is grating the wax.  Especially if you have a wimpy grater.  Had I considered how hard wax is compared to cheese, I would have coughed up the extra cash and bought a good grater.  Oh well.  The recipe I used is pretty simple.  
  • 1/3 cup Bees Wax
  • 1/3 cup Carnuba Wax
  • 1 cup Walnut or Tung Oil
This makes a wax that is easy to apply and buff out.  Changing the ratio of Bees wax to Carnuba wax will change characteristics of your finish.  Carnuba wax is very hard and brings out great luster to a piece.  Bees wax can also give a nice shine, but will dull more quickly than Carnuba wax.  

So why use Bees wax at all?  Well, its much cheaper and is more malleable.  If you had a paste wax that was just made up of Carnuba wax and oil, it would be a crumbly mess.  Aside from that, I dont want my cutting board to shine like a new Lamborghini after treating it with paste wax.  This is the main reason for using a blend instead of just one wax.  By altering the recipe, you can control the sheen and durability of a paste wax finish.

Enough of the wordy stuff, let get on with it already.

Before you start melting wax, add enough water to the pot so that the water level is about 1/2" below the top of your melting container.

Add the wax and oil to your container and turn up the heat.  You can go ahead and crank it up, but be sure to turn the heat down before the water starts to boil.  You dont really want water in your paste wax, so try to avoid it.  A little wont cause any major trouble, but just be mindful that the less water in your paste wax, the better.


All Natural, Non-Toxic Paste Wax

Once everything is melted, you can take the container out of the pot of water with pliers.  The stuff is kinda hot...  Spilling is not recommended.

All Natural, Non-Toxic Paste Wax

As the wax cools, keep stirring the mixture so that the oil does not separate.  Putting the container on a cooling rack helps to speed up the cool down process.  Ive also put the container in the fridge for about a minute at a time when the mixture is fresh out of the hot water.


All Natural, Non-Toxic Paste Wax

Once the wax is cooled, its ready to use.  Be sure to write down your recipe so that you can repeat it once you run out, or so you have a starting place for changing up your paste wax recipe in the future.

This is a basic recipe and you can certainly add colorants or metallic flakes to the wax for a different effect.

I hope you enjoyed the post.  Let me know if you try it out for yourself and feel free to comment or ask any question you may have.  Thank for reading, yall! 
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a couple of white oak tables

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we shipped two tables to marblehead yesterday.  theyve been in the works for a while, pending completion of a remodeling project in the house.  the dining table was 12 long with the leaves on the ends, and the coffee table was a pretty good sized one too at 48 x 68. 

we started with some 8/4 plain sawn white oak from hal moore at adirondack hardwoods..
the construction of the base was straightforward mortise and tenon and the leg style was based on a drawing the clients architect sent us of the leg on the new kitchen island.
the clients wanted to occasionally extend the table, but didnt want the leaves in the center, so sam fabricated some 3/4 square steel pull out supports.
and chris added the wooden locators as well as some steel locking devices to keep the leaves attached to the table when they were added.
closed, the leaf supports are totally unobstrusive.


weve made quite a number of these classic parsons style tables.  for step by step construction tips and a brief history of the origin of the design, check these other previous blog posts
looks like a nice place to hang out !



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Minggu, 08 Mei 2016

Look Where to buy wood for projects

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Useful Where to buy wood for projects must try

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Plans For Bed » Blog Archive » Beginner Woodworking Plans Do You


Plans For Bed » Blog Archive » Beginner Woodworking Plans Do You

where to buy wood working tools where to find the best buys


Where to buy wood working tools where to find the best buys

- DIY Project Supplies - Classical Rubber Band Launcher Wooden


- DIY Project Supplies - Classical Rubber Band Launcher Wooden


This Where to buy wood for projects


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Kamis, 05 Mei 2016

Game table woodworking

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For you Game table woodworking

Concertina Hinge Game Table - Readers Gallery - Fine Woodworking

UBILD728 - Game Table Vintage Woodworking Plan


UBILD728 - Game Table Vintage Woodworking Plan

portable game woodworking plans - WoodShop Plans


Portable game woodworking plans - WoodShop Plans

Concertina Hinge Game Table - Readers Gallery - Fine Woodworking


Concertina Hinge Game Table - Readers Gallery - Fine Woodworking

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small woodworking ideas to sell

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Wood plans free - small wooden boat blueprints


Wood plans free - small wooden boat blueprints

Small Wood Projects Ideas – How To build DIY Woodworking Blueprints


Small Wood Projects Ideas – How To build DIY Woodworking Blueprints

Gail Green for Green & Co., Inc. Add drama to a dining room with


Gail Green for Green & Co., Inc. Add drama to a dining room with

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Rabu, 04 Mei 2016

a pair of antique doors

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another interesting and challenging project here involving some antique doors.  the clients purchased them in austin, texas for the home they were/are building in londonderry,vermont.  weve done a number of other projects there, and were currently working on a reclaimed chestnut king size bed for them that should be completed and ready for finishing this week.
by the time i got involved with the doors, the hole for them was already framed up, and was both narrower 
and taller (standard r.o.height, 82.5") than the doors, which were about 73" x 39" wide as a pair.
we brought them into the shop and did some conceptualizing.  first off, the large strap hinges were trapped between the two layers that made up the doors rather than applied to the face of the door, which is their typical location.
typically, with big strap hinges like these, you block the door in place, apply the hinges, remove the blocking and youre good to go.  having the hinges behind the frame and panel parts of the doors, changed the location of the hingess pivot point, which meant we had to create a space for the frame and panel part of the door to open into.
and then there was the hinge pintles themselves, which had to be screwed into the frames before the frame was mounted to the wall, or the wall would be in the way ... houston, we have a problem came to mind several times in the engineering of this project. 







anyway, we figured it out, more or less.  in the end we had to add a 3/8ths shim behind the frame, both to keep the irregular backs of the doors from binding against the wall itself and to cover the space where the doors set away from the frames when they were closed.  still with me?  good!

 
here they are in the test hang position
 
and in this photo, you can see the white wall behind where we had to add the shims
then, back at the shop we had to add 8" or so to the bottom of both doors; antique and color the frame; add the steel parts sam fabricated to hold the lock and then take them back over and install them permanently
another fun and challenging one

see trevor adding the extensions on the bottoms of the doors below ... we maybe should have added a couple pieces of steel to the extensions, but we were, as they say, a bit over budget, and
it was time to hang em.
check those rough planks ...
really rough planks
 
very, very cool old objects, and i cant even guess their age.  they are real.  and they are old.  im thinking maybe the planks were the doors first and the frames and panels were added later as decorations .
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Sabtu, 30 April 2016

How to Build a Picnic Table Step by Step Guide

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This post will show you how to build a picnic table exactly like the one shown in the photo below.  I think this picnic table would make a wonderful addition to your outdoor summer experience at home.  When correctly built and finished you will be able to enjoy this woodworking project for many years to come.  I built mine using everyday woodworking tools that could be bought very cheaply second hand or borrowed from a neighbour.  I used plans that I downloaded and were essential when it came time to build my picnic table.  Just follow the step by step guide below and it will teach you everything you need to know about building a picnic table.

You can make this picnic table, just keep reading!
 
 

Step 1:  Materials list and tools used

The materials used were bought at my local hardware store quite cheaply:
  • 2x4s
  • 2x6s
  • 2x8s
  • 3" x 3/8" galvanised carriage bolts
  • 2 1/2", 3" and 4" inch decking screws
  • Outdoor wood varnish
Thankfully all the tools I needed, I already owned:
  • Circular saw
  • Sabre saw
  • 3m tape measure
  • Framing square
  • Combination square
  • Cordless drill and an assortment of bits
  • C-clamps and bar clamps
  • Ratchet set
  • Paint brushes
  • Safety specs
  • 120 and 220 grit sandpaper

Terminology used in the guide


Step 2:  Cutting the legs to length

Cut the table slats to length with a circular saw

Cut the legs to length using a circular saw.  Clamp your framing square at 60 degrees to the end of the 2x8 and use this as a fence to run your circular saw against to ensure a perfect 60 degrees.  Obviously, you need to do this 8 times.


Step 3:  Cutting the table slats

Cut the table slats to length from a 2x8.  The top edges of the slats may be rounded off using a router or giving a light run with a smoothing plane.
 

Step 3: Prepare the end table and centre table supports

This involves cutting a 60 degree angle on the ends of the supports.  This cuts down on weight slightly and makes for a more knee friendly table.

Step 4: Creating the picnic table top


The table top assembly requires the two
end table supports and the centre table
support.  Spacers are used in between the slats, during assembly, to allow a space between the slats for rainwater drainage while maintaining a practical table
surface.
            Drill pilot holes, 2 for each slat on both end table supports and the centre support.  Countersink the holes so that the screw head finishes flush with the bottom surface of the supports.
            Screw the supports to the table slats.  You may use a wood glue if desire for extra rigidity.
 
 

 Step 5: Attaching the legs

 
Clamp the legs to the outside faces of the end table supports 
Clamp the legs in place and position them on each of the centre slats and on the outer face of the end support faces.  The legs will be attached with some galvanised carriage bolts with washers.  It is very important to use galvanised elements as they resist corrosion and ensure that your table will be held together securely.
 
Attach the legs with two 3-inch carriage boltsDrill some clearance holes for the bolts.  It is a good idea to drill clearance holes which are very slightly smaller than the bolt diameter.  This will make for a very rigid leg structure.  The bolts will be tightened from the inside.  The counterboring ensures that the end of the bolt does not protrude underneath the table and possibly injure somebody while sitting.  Also, ensure that you use a galvanised washer.  This will spread the load applied when tightening the bolt and minimise any puncturing of the wood and prevent any ingress of water into the timber, which will result in premature rotting of the wood.  You can plug the counterbore with some clear silicone after you have finished tightening the bolts.
 

Step 6:  Attaching the bench supports to the legs

 
Drill holes on the outside face of each leg to clamp the bench supports to the legsLay one arm of a framing square on the table top and mark the position of the bench supports on the legsMark the position of the bench support and clamp to the legs using a c-clamp.   Mark the position of the holes. Using deck screws and a cordless screwdriver attach the bench supports.
 
 
 

Step 7:  Cut and attach the braces

 
Drill pilot holes on each brace and then drive in the screws


Using 2x4s cut the braces to length and cut
60 degree angles on both ends.  Centre
the brace on the bench support and drill
pilot holes for the decking screws.
 
 
 
 
 

Step 8: Cut the bench cleats and attach

 
Drill holes on the bench cleats after positioning them at the center of the bench slatsUse spacers to space out the bench slats and fix the bench slats together using the bench cleat.  Clamp the assembly together usingbar clamps.  Drill pilot holes and fix using decking screws.  For extra strength you may choose to use two bench cleats.
 
 
 

Step 9:  Fix the bench to the bench support

 
Drill holes on the bench supports to screw them on to the benchesPosition the benches onto the bench supports and hold them in place using the c-clamps.  See the position guides in the diagram
Drill pilot holes on the underside of the
bench supports.  Attach the benches to the
bench supports using decking screws.
 
 

Step 10: Sand and finish

Apply a waterproof finish after sanding all rough edgesUsing a sanding block and some 120 grit paper give the surfaces a sanding. Sand in the direction of the grain to give a smoother finish.  If you are in a hurry then may choose not to sand on the surfaces that are not visible.  Using a vacuum cleaner suck all the dust off the surfaces.  Using 220 grit sandpaper, sand again.  This should leave a smooth surface. Again vacuum the surface and rub all surfaces with a tack cloth.  Note: A tack cloth is a lint free cloth that has been impregnated with a wax that will grab all bits of dust from your woodworking project.  If you want to stain the wood I would recommend using a pre-conditioner if you have built your picnic table from pine.  The pre-conditioner helps softwoods like pine to stain more evenly.  Once the picnic table has been dusted you may apply a coat of outdoor varnish.  Allow to dry for 24 hours.
 

Conclusion:

I hope that you have enjoyed this project.  It can be easily done over a weekend and will last for years to come.  If you need some blueprints. I bought a very good set of plans online.
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