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Starting Out

To begin, this is my first blog.  Ill be clumsily arranging my thoughts and projects as I move along.  

My intent with this blog is to share my opinions and work to give back to the woodworking community as it has given to me.  I am a woodworker by hobby. I began building guitars when in high school and have recently "completed" my shop.  Is a shop ever really done?  No, no it is not.  In addition to luthiery, I very much enjoy turning.  So much so that I built a large lathe, which will eventually be posted.  Ive also built some furniture along the way. 

I will mainly focus on turning with this blog, as it is my primary woodworking activity.  However, I will also post about shop improvements, guitar building and what ever else happens to take place in the shop.

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Winter is coming

said Lord Stark of Winterfell  ...                                       (A song of ice and fire - George R.R. Martin).

Well, the Saint Thomasguild is prepared for winter with these three-fingered sheepskin mittens.

 A pair of split sheepskin mittens ready for a cold winter.

The three fingered mittens or split mittens are used in medieval times by workmen, farmers and falconers. They offer more flexibility in handling things and have better grip than normal mittens. Also, they are less expensive and easier to make than five-fingered gloves. 

We thank our mittens to the wool moths which infested our sheepskin. After we got rid of the evil insects, flocks of hair fell out of one of our skins and it became useless for display. However, it could still be used to make some mittens. We based our mittens on the pattern provided by Sarah Thursfield in her book "Medieval tailors assistant". First we tried the pattern on a piece of woollen cloth to find the exact place for the thumb, then enlarged it a little to allow for the thickness of the sheepskin. The wool of the skin was cut short, leaving 5-6 mm long hairs on the skin. Sewing the leather was done by hand using the oversewing stitch and found to be very easy. One piece of advice: Dont forget to turn the pattern for the other hand, otherwise you end up with one spare mitten like us ...

Left: Shepherds from Nativity by Nikolaus Stürhofer, c. 1505-1515.

Right: Shepherds in The Nativity by Robert Campin, around 1419. Dijon, France, Musee des Beaux Arts.

                   

                                                                                                    
Left: Farmer wearing a split mitten in the Macclesfield Psalter (Fitzwilliam 1-2005, fol. 77r), c. 1330.
Right: The falconers is wearing a split mitten on which the falcon sits. The Month of January, Grimani Breviary, 1490-1510, Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, Venice, Italy. These images were found on internet using the site of Larsdatter.

 The left image shows the thickness of the sheep leather and wool. The middle photo shows the oversewing stitch used for the mitten. The photo on the right shows one finished thumb piece and the woollen test mitten..

 The finished three-fingered mittens shown at different angles. Left photo, both mittens at the inside of the hand. Middle photo, one mitten on the outside on on top. Right photo, both mittens on top, showing how the thumbs are set in the mitten and the extra strip for the split fingers..

 

Cape and mittens are ready for winter. 

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Computer Case Hack

If you read this post title and think Im going to discuss corrupting your friends hard drive or tell you how to steal their photos from that beach trip, your going to be disappointed.  In true Wood Shop Mike fashion, this post is about utilizing a commonly found item to serve a need in the shop.

Im using a CPU case here to house the electronics for Big Blue.  VFDs (variable frequency drives) dont like dust.  Bad things happen when lots of dust, debris, or metal chips get into electronics.  So, instead of buying an enclosure specifically intended for these items, I used an old computer case.  
Why did I use a computer case?  Well, a new enclosure for a VFD is going to cost you a couple hundred dollars.  A regular size computer case has plenty of room for a VFD and brake module.  Used cases are easy to come by and normally will still have fans or power supplies in them.  Check your local surplus warehouse if youre have trouble finding a candidate for surgery.  

I started out this project by removing all the existing components, minus the fans.  I took the fan off the CPU and kept the power supply around to use later.  Then, I started laying out the electronics and decided on an arrangement that made me happy.  I marked where I want a hole in the top of the case so I can still use the VFD on-board controller.  


Now, how to I mount these things in here in some meaningful way?

Enter the old power supply, which I use as a shelf.  I drilled some holes to correspond with existing anchor points in the mother board support panel.  I then drilled and tapped holes to connect the VFD to one side of the power supply box.  I also cut off the panel of the power supply box that the fan mounts to and remounted that piece to the case where it normally lives.

Cutoff From Power Supply

This is the fan off of the VFD.  It conveniently runs on 24V DC, as do the other fans from the computer case.  Here Im splicing a "supply cable" into the leads for this fan.  Ill then use wire nuts to tie the three fans together.

Stealing Power!

Before I cut the "window" for the on board controls, I verified that everything will line up once cut.  Everything looks good so lets get to it!  I used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder to make the opening.  I should pause here and reiterate that hand tools can bite you!  You technically arent suppose to use an angle grinder without a guard...  Decide for yourself.  I will say, the time it takes to put the guard on (if its off) sure beats the time it would take to stitch your hand back up!

Cut Here!

Back to cutting.  I make a series of plunge cuts and connect the four corners. Oops, I went a little far on one...  Lets say its got character now.

After checking the fit, everything seems to line up just fine.  Victory is mine!

Now I drilled and tapped holes for the brake module.  After that, just fasten the brake in place (bottom of case) with the appropriately sized screws and thats done.  

Id like to point out what seems to be a peg leg.  My "shelf" was just a bit flimsy and needed some extra support.  I just happened to have a scrap piece of wood lying around...
  

Almost there

I used cable glands for the comings in and goings out of the power and control cables.  These are awesome little guys that protect your cables from wearing around a sheet metal edge.  They also grab the cable and keep it from pulling out of the terminals on your electronics.  Aint no body got time for a fire!

At this point I realized I dont have a 3/4" hole saw. I had to stop and go get one...  Drat...

Well with all that said, I spent a few hours on this.  That even includes going to the store!  The VFD and brake module are both surplus Allen Bradley units, together they cost in the neighborhood of $300. The pendant, cables, and plug were close to $50.  My Dad wasnt using this case any longer so that was FREE!!  

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Making a sella curulis starting with the wood

I decided to make the sella curulis of pear wood for two reasons. First it is historically correct (the St. Admont folding chair in the MAK in Vienna is also made in pear). Secondly, because pear has a nice pinkish colour. I will not paint the sella curulis; just decorate it with chip carving. Pear is also relatively easy to carve, at least a lot easier than oak.

The quartered pear plank with the markings of the chair stands.

 The drawing model card used to fit the chair stands on the pear plank.

I had acquired a pear plank of around 5 cm thickness. With a bit of puzzling, the four chair stands just fitted the size of the plank. I then cut the plank into two pieces with a scroll-saw to be able to manage the plank later when using the band-saw. Using the band-saw I again halved the plank, so I had 4 pieces. These were planed to exactly 5 cm, after which they were cut more precisely with the band-saw to four chair stands. These were shaved with a spoke shave to smoothen the saw cut.

Two of the four band-sawn chairstands of the sella curulis 

 Two smoothed chair stands ready for the next step.

 

The next step was to drill a hole for the connecting rail in the centre of the X, using a machine drill and a 3 cm forstner bit. As the connecting rail is meant to be invisible from the outside, the outside stands were not drilled through like the stands on the inside.

Then I had to remove half of the thickness of the centre parts by router in order to have the chair parts at the same level. For routing, I made a small jig, which made it easier to manoeuvre the router which was equipped with a guide bush. After routing, the remaining parts missed by the router were removed using a chisel. This allowed the parts of the X to be perfectly fitted.

 The part to be removed is marked by pencil. Note that this chair stand is for the inside of the chair as it is drilled through.

The routing jig is fixed by clamps onto the chair stand.

 Movement of the router is restricted by the jig and the guide bush.

 Two finished parts of the sella curulis, an inside and an outside of an X stand.

 Two parts of one X clearly show the perfect fit of the connection. Side view (top) and front view (below).

 

 

The chair stands give already a rough impression of the final sella curulis. 

Behind the chair, the medieval tool chest Bram is working on.

 

The 4 chair stands of the sella curulis showing the folded situation of the chair.

The making of the sella curulis will be continued in another post with the different side rails that connect the two X-stands.

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