Thomas tapestry project choosing the tapestry wool

Last months we have been busy testing several types of wool on the linen we will use for our recreation of the Saint Thomas tapestry. There were great differences between the wools from different producers. Some threads were far too loosely winded to be able to work easily; these threads quickly started to unravel and wear during stitching (exit Appleton), or they were too thick to stitch through our linen (exit DMC). Others were worse and broke already when applying very little strength (exit Holst Garn). We wondered how people could ever use (or wear) textiles made with this wool.. Two other wools were too thick to use, and could not be easily pulled through the linen. Two other wool types proved equally fine: Renaissance dying and Wollschmiede. Both manufacturers make naturally (hand) coloured wool. Since the first was recommended by our blog readers, and had a large variety of colours to choose from, we have chosen their wool to work with.

You can easily see the differences between the wools thickness and winding of the wool types. 

The left one we will use for our tapestry.

Having decided which wool we would, we ordered a colour card of the available colour to be able to choose the colours we would need. When making our choice for certain colours we had to keep in mind that the colours of the original Thomasteppich have faded over the centuries (especially the light green and black), changing, but also creating a variety within a colour. Below is the list of 13 colours we have chosen for the tapestry. The 13 colours are also indicated in the study by Tanja Kohwagner-Nikolai per manus sororum.. Niederschsische Bildstickereien im Klosterstich (1300-1583)

• Ivory 0900 (natur - e.g. peoples faces and buildings)
• Light gold 1413 (gelb - e.g. gold, aura of the saints)
• Dark red 1101 (rot - e.g. clothing)
• Orange 1363 (rosa - e.g. chair of the king, clothing)
• Dark green 1511 (helles blaugrun - e.g. grass)
• Light beech green 1515 (gelbgrun - e.g. trees)
• Dark blue 1007 (dunkelblau - e.g. sky)
• Medium blue 1005 (stahlblau - e.g. roofs, helmet)
• Dark brown 0908 (braun - e.g. dog, horses)
• Mid brown 0907 (graubraun - e.g. horses)
• Mid Corn 1412 (beige - e.g. clothes)
• Dark peach 1201 (lila - e.g. eastern faces, soul)
• Black 0503 (schwartz - e.g. details faces, saddle)

The 1 metre black wool test on the saddle of the horse with the knight.

Our next problem was to determine how much or each colour we would need. Therefore we tested the area 1 meter thread would cover in the cloister stitch. We could make 2.6 square cm with 1 meter thread. Now we only needed to know how many square cm each colour contained in the tapestry. To do this we photoshopped our photo of the tapestry. First the colours were faded, then the identical colours were made of the same shade. After this, a colleague of mine used a program to count the pixels of each colour and calculate the percentage of that colour. Knowing the size of the tapestry this was converted to square cm, and then meters wool.

The centre piece of the St. Thomasteppich with the 13 colours made identical. There is in fact a 14th colour here, as we did give the aura of Jesus and Saint Thomas a brighter shade of yellow. However, we will not use a different colour for the embroidery.

We did not measure the colours at the sides of the tapestry, because we wish to add some other images there that have something to do with our woodworking guild and the city of Nimweghen. As we do not yet know how it would look like and what colours we would use, it is impossible to count colours or order wool for the sides.

Interestingly, all this counting gives an indication of how much wool is used for the (centre of the) original tapestry (78,120 square cm): more than 30 kilometres! (not counting the small amount of wool on the back of the tapestry and the faded colours on the faces). As our tapestry will be half-sized, this would mean 7,511 meter for us. Of course we will order more wool to be sure to have enough wool of the same colour bath. Below is a table showing how much of each colours is used in the tapestry. The two types of yellow have been added together for our tapestry.

Colour	%	Original (metres)	Guild (metres)
Black	0.9	270	67
Ivory	31.1	9,661	2,415
Dark green	9.6	2,885	712
Dark blue	21.9	6,580	1,645
Licht blue	3.5	1,052	263
Saintly gold	1.0	300
Yellow	3.8	1,142	360
Dark brown	4.6	1,382	345
Light brown	1.4	421	105
Light green	6.6	1,983	500
Beige	3.5	1,052	263
Dark red	9.3	2,794	698
Orange	4.7	1,412	353
Lila	0.6	180	45
Total colours	102.5	31,114		7,778
Total	100.0	30,046		7,511

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Thomasteppich wool has arrived

Today we received a parcel from Renaissance dying from France containing the wool hanks for the Saint Thomas tapestry project. It is amazing that all the kilometres of wool fit it a relatively small parcel. How many sheep would have given the wool for our tapestry? Anyway, Anne has started already embroidering with the colours.

The parcel with the wool hanks for the tapestry.

 

All the 12 colours for the tapestry, plus some extra. First row: ivory, light gold, dark brown, mid corn, black. Second row: dark red, golden yellow, orange, mid brown, cinnamon, mid blue grey, dark peach. Third row: dark blue, medium blue, light beech green, dark green.

Anne is using the first colour (light beech green) on a tree on the second row of the tapestry.

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Making Bowl Blanks

Today Ill show you how I process a log for making bowl blanks.  This is a hickory log that has sat for about 4 months.  Today, a brisk Black Friday, I played while my wife and mother-in-law went shopping. 

First, lets get something straight.  This is my method of processing logs.  Using a chainsaw is inherently dangerous.  If you cut off your leg while attempting to cut a log, thats on you.  Proper PPE should be worn. Any lack of PPE on my part is not an excuse for your injury.  Now since thats outta the way, lets get to it!

As you can see there is some substantial checking on the end of this log.  I first need to cut back enough to remove the majority of this checking.  Ill cut back 2-3 inches on each end since the log wasnt long enough to get three segments out of.  Before I start, I prop the end Im cutting with some scrap.  This prevents the chain from contacting the ground as the cut is finished.




I "measured" the length of this short log by laying the bar across the log and referenced the logs circumference compared to the length of the saws bar.  Then I laid the bar axial next to the log and eye balled the length referenced previously.

This is where a slabbing/ ripping/ skip tooth chain comes in handy.  If I were cutting a lot of logs, Id get my other saw out that has a standard cross cutting chain on it.  This would save a bit of wear on the slabbing chain and I wouldnt have to sharpen it as soon.  The only reason I have two chain saws is because the second one was given to me as a box of parts with the words of "If you can fix it, its yours.  Otherwise throw it in the trash if you like."  

The process here is to cut with the grain, as it is much easier on you and the saw.  This will create nice long shavings.  If you cut from the end grain (think splitting a log) then you will get short shavings and a lot of dust, not to mention the saw feels like youre cutting ice.  I set the log on scrap to keep the chain out of the dirt and also chock the log on both sides to keep it from rolling around while Im cutting. Here you want to line up the bar with the pith.  I missed the far side of the pith with my first cut, so I had to make a second cut to completely remove it.  I also dont cut all the way through the log until I know the pith will be completely removed.  Also, I dont usually remove the bark, but it was already falling off of this log so I went ahead and pulled it off.  Dirt and other abrasives are found in bark, so your chain will stay sharp a little longer the less bark you have to cut through.

No sense in staying outside now that the fun is all done.  Lets head over to the band saw and finish up these blanks.  I made a circle cutting jig some time ago that allows me to rotate a half log (what we just made with the chainsaw) on an indexing pin.  I have multiple diameters that can be cut with this jig.

The process is pretty straight forward.  On the flat side of the log, find the center by measuring the diameter and length.  Drill a shallow hole that is slightly larger than the index pin on your circle cutting jig.  Then decide what size blank you can get out of the piece.  Put the index pin in the proper location on the jig and then locate your soon to be bowl blank on the pin.  You can do this with the jig on the saw or on a bench.  

Once you are ready to start cutting, grab your ear plugs, safety glasses, and a dust mask.  Even with a dust collector, you will probably want a mask.  Locate the jig on the table and be sure that the blade is not contacting your blank.  Fire up the saw and slowly advance the piece into the blade.  Once the jig is fully seated on the table, begin to rotate your blank.  360 degrees later, you have a bowl blank ready for turning!

Now pat yourself on the back.  Youve cut bowl blanks and can remove some of the initial roughing out drama.  If these blanks are going to sit for some period of time, you will want to coat the end grain with a sealer.  Lots of people use anchor seal.  I use paraffin wax or exterior latex paint.  Ive never had trouble with just using paint, but others will tell you to steer clear.

Let me know if you have any questions and Ill be happy to answer them.  Thanks for reading!

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Steel Wool and Vinegar Does What

What do you get when you mix steel wool with vinegar?  Yes, you get steel wool that smells like vinegar, but thats not the point.  Ill give you a hint.  You can use the results to stain wood.  Believe me?  Find out for yourself with my tutorial.

You too can enjoy the dark color of ebony without the high price of commercial stains or ebony!  You will need the following items.

• Vinegar 
• Steel wool (0000 is best)
• An old jar (plastic is better)
• Solvents (I used Mineral Spirits and Lacquer Thinner)
• Coffee filter and rubber band (optional)

The process is pretty simply.  First, find your steel wool and douse it with mineral spirits.  I followed up with lacquer thinner to remove the mineral spirits because Im a bit impatient with things.  The solvents are used to remove the oil that most steel wool is coated with to prevent rust.  Most any solvent will work.  If youre really desperate, you can swipe your wifes nail polish remover or use gas (I dont recommend this and if you catch yourself or property on fire, thats just your own fault.  Im glad you understand.)  Let whatever solvent you use fully evaporate before you proceed.

Now shred your steel wool into dime sized pieces.  Wear thick gloves if you like.  You can get splinters from tearing steel wool.  Find your jar and toss in the steel wool and add enough vinegar to cover your steel wool mountain. Put on the lid and give the jar a shake.  Be sure to loosen the lid afterward so that the mixture can off-gas.  Wait at least 24 hours and shake the jar occasionally. Dont forget to tighten the lid before shaking, just speaking from experience here...  "Vinegar Steel" isnt going to be the next cologne to hit the shelves.

If you wait long enough, the steel will completely dissolve in the vinegar bath.  Regardless, once your waiting threshold has been reached, you are finished up and can either filter the solution, or use it as is. I noticed that there was debris in the jar and decided to let it soak through a coffee filter.  This takes forever.  Youve been warned.  I ended up poking holes in the filter with a awl, which didnt seem to speed up the process...  Drat!  

Ready for filtration!

Filtering

This is not coffee

Now go ebonize!  Woods with higher tannin content will react more than woods with lower tannin content.  All you need to do is apply more ebonizer if one or two of the applications is not dark enough. Apply this just like you would any other wipe-on finish.  The grain will likely raise some amount, so be sure to touch up the surface before moving on to a top coat.  Also, the solution does not go on black.  It will look like really dirty water, but just give it a minute and youll be surprised.

Here are a few pieces I grabbed to test out.  From top left to bottom right the samples are cherry, white oak, spalted maple, and rock maple.  You can see that the cherry and oak pieces darkened to near black.  I think with some good surface prep and an extra coat, these two would end up very dark.  You can see a color variation on the oak between the sap wood and heart wood.  Maple didnt react to the ebonizing solution as much.  It turned a weathered grey, which could still be quite useful. 

If you have any questions, feel free to email me.  If you use this on a project, let me know how it turned out! Thanks for reading!

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