Making Bowl Blanks

Today Ill show you how I process a log for making bowl blanks.  This is a hickory log that has sat for about 4 months.  Today, a brisk Black Friday, I played while my wife and mother-in-law went shopping. 

First, lets get something straight.  This is my method of processing logs.  Using a chainsaw is inherently dangerous.  If you cut off your leg while attempting to cut a log, thats on you.  Proper PPE should be worn. Any lack of PPE on my part is not an excuse for your injury.  Now since thats outta the way, lets get to it!

As you can see there is some substantial checking on the end of this log.  I first need to cut back enough to remove the majority of this checking.  Ill cut back 2-3 inches on each end since the log wasnt long enough to get three segments out of.  Before I start, I prop the end Im cutting with some scrap.  This prevents the chain from contacting the ground as the cut is finished.




I "measured" the length of this short log by laying the bar across the log and referenced the logs circumference compared to the length of the saws bar.  Then I laid the bar axial next to the log and eye balled the length referenced previously.

This is where a slabbing/ ripping/ skip tooth chain comes in handy.  If I were cutting a lot of logs, Id get my other saw out that has a standard cross cutting chain on it.  This would save a bit of wear on the slabbing chain and I wouldnt have to sharpen it as soon.  The only reason I have two chain saws is because the second one was given to me as a box of parts with the words of "If you can fix it, its yours.  Otherwise throw it in the trash if you like."  

The process here is to cut with the grain, as it is much easier on you and the saw.  This will create nice long shavings.  If you cut from the end grain (think splitting a log) then you will get short shavings and a lot of dust, not to mention the saw feels like youre cutting ice.  I set the log on scrap to keep the chain out of the dirt and also chock the log on both sides to keep it from rolling around while Im cutting. Here you want to line up the bar with the pith.  I missed the far side of the pith with my first cut, so I had to make a second cut to completely remove it.  I also dont cut all the way through the log until I know the pith will be completely removed.  Also, I dont usually remove the bark, but it was already falling off of this log so I went ahead and pulled it off.  Dirt and other abrasives are found in bark, so your chain will stay sharp a little longer the less bark you have to cut through.

No sense in staying outside now that the fun is all done.  Lets head over to the band saw and finish up these blanks.  I made a circle cutting jig some time ago that allows me to rotate a half log (what we just made with the chainsaw) on an indexing pin.  I have multiple diameters that can be cut with this jig.

The process is pretty straight forward.  On the flat side of the log, find the center by measuring the diameter and length.  Drill a shallow hole that is slightly larger than the index pin on your circle cutting jig.  Then decide what size blank you can get out of the piece.  Put the index pin in the proper location on the jig and then locate your soon to be bowl blank on the pin.  You can do this with the jig on the saw or on a bench.  

Once you are ready to start cutting, grab your ear plugs, safety glasses, and a dust mask.  Even with a dust collector, you will probably want a mask.  Locate the jig on the table and be sure that the blade is not contacting your blank.  Fire up the saw and slowly advance the piece into the blade.  Once the jig is fully seated on the table, begin to rotate your blank.  360 degrees later, you have a bowl blank ready for turning!

Now pat yourself on the back.  Youve cut bowl blanks and can remove some of the initial roughing out drama.  If these blanks are going to sit for some period of time, you will want to coat the end grain with a sealer.  Lots of people use anchor seal.  I use paraffin wax or exterior latex paint.  Ive never had trouble with just using paint, but others will tell you to steer clear.

Let me know if you have any questions and Ill be happy to answer them.  Thanks for reading!

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Steel Wool and Vinegar Does What

What do you get when you mix steel wool with vinegar?  Yes, you get steel wool that smells like vinegar, but thats not the point.  Ill give you a hint.  You can use the results to stain wood.  Believe me?  Find out for yourself with my tutorial.

You too can enjoy the dark color of ebony without the high price of commercial stains or ebony!  You will need the following items.

• Vinegar 
• Steel wool (0000 is best)
• An old jar (plastic is better)
• Solvents (I used Mineral Spirits and Lacquer Thinner)
• Coffee filter and rubber band (optional)

The process is pretty simply.  First, find your steel wool and douse it with mineral spirits.  I followed up with lacquer thinner to remove the mineral spirits because Im a bit impatient with things.  The solvents are used to remove the oil that most steel wool is coated with to prevent rust.  Most any solvent will work.  If youre really desperate, you can swipe your wifes nail polish remover or use gas (I dont recommend this and if you catch yourself or property on fire, thats just your own fault.  Im glad you understand.)  Let whatever solvent you use fully evaporate before you proceed.

Now shred your steel wool into dime sized pieces.  Wear thick gloves if you like.  You can get splinters from tearing steel wool.  Find your jar and toss in the steel wool and add enough vinegar to cover your steel wool mountain. Put on the lid and give the jar a shake.  Be sure to loosen the lid afterward so that the mixture can off-gas.  Wait at least 24 hours and shake the jar occasionally. Dont forget to tighten the lid before shaking, just speaking from experience here...  "Vinegar Steel" isnt going to be the next cologne to hit the shelves.

If you wait long enough, the steel will completely dissolve in the vinegar bath.  Regardless, once your waiting threshold has been reached, you are finished up and can either filter the solution, or use it as is. I noticed that there was debris in the jar and decided to let it soak through a coffee filter.  This takes forever.  Youve been warned.  I ended up poking holes in the filter with a awl, which didnt seem to speed up the process...  Drat!  

Ready for filtration!

Filtering

This is not coffee

Now go ebonize!  Woods with higher tannin content will react more than woods with lower tannin content.  All you need to do is apply more ebonizer if one or two of the applications is not dark enough. Apply this just like you would any other wipe-on finish.  The grain will likely raise some amount, so be sure to touch up the surface before moving on to a top coat.  Also, the solution does not go on black.  It will look like really dirty water, but just give it a minute and youll be surprised.

Here are a few pieces I grabbed to test out.  From top left to bottom right the samples are cherry, white oak, spalted maple, and rock maple.  You can see that the cherry and oak pieces darkened to near black.  I think with some good surface prep and an extra coat, these two would end up very dark.  You can see a color variation on the oak between the sap wood and heart wood.  Maple didnt react to the ebonizing solution as much.  It turned a weathered grey, which could still be quite useful. 

If you have any questions, feel free to email me.  If you use this on a project, let me know how it turned out! Thanks for reading!

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