A Little Oak Bowl

This little guy started off over a year ago, long before the hair-brained idea of building a dedicated bowl lathe took over my sanity.  It had some cracks in it from the onset, but I wasnt scared.  

I thought it would be a great time to try out a new medium for filling in cracks just like these.  Now just what is this mystery material?  

Is it dust from a prized scrap of ebony that you sacrificed?  No.  

Is it some expensive grain filler you had to special order?  Not a chance.  

Ill give you a hint.  Its "The best part of wakin up, theres Folgers in your"... Wood bowl?  Yep thats right, coffee grounds mixed with epoxy make a great filler.  I think the end results look promising for future use of this idea.  Ill suggest that whenever you do this kind of filling, put as much of the stuff as you can in the void. Id also suggest using epoxy as the base material.  Epoxy isnt just a glue, its void filling.  Thank means that it will take up a lot of space and still have its structural integrity. Other glues cant perform like this.  

I had a bit of rework to do with this piece.  Did I mention it had been sitting for a year?  It was very wobbly after remounting it.  Look!  My spur drive made it!  All the way from Axminster in the UK. Here is the bowl to its final shape before sanding.

After sanding and burnishing with and old shirt, the coffee filler really pops off of the piece.  I wonder if dark roast would be any better?

Here is a quick and easy finish recipe.  Equal parts of Tung Oil, Mineral Spirits, and any poly or varnish.  I mixed this up in a small bottle so that I can hopefully use it all before the finish dries up.

HERES A TIP!

As you use your finish, remove as much dead volume (air) from the can as possible.  The great thing about this little squeeze bottle I that I can compress the sides until the finish almost squirts out the spout and the put the cap on.  AWESOME!

And here it is off the lathe.  Ill add a little coffee filler to the inside of the bowl where you can see the cracks coming all the way through.  Hopefully Ill be able to scrape down the filler easily and be home free after a few more coats of finish, followed by buffing.

Thanks for reading!  If you have any questions, comments, or project suggestions, please leave them below.  Have a great day!

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Making a Tool Handle From Pipe!

Want a handle for your turning tools without the big price tag?  Ill show you how and have a bit of fun in the process!

I was able to find all of the necessary components at my local Home Depot to make 2 handles. Interested?  Heres what you need to get going!

• Determination to save some greenbacks
• A tool for which to make the handle
• 1/2" pipe nipple (I used 18" and 12" long pieces)
• A 1/2" cap for one end of your pipe...  I mean handle
• Two 1/4-20 set screws per tool  1/4-20 x 1/4, 1/4-20 x 1/2   
• 3/4" ID hose to provide grip.  I used braided vinyl, but you can use whatever you like.
• Nylon spacer (This one is optional)
• 5/16 set screw (Only if you buy the spacer)
• BBs!  Dont shoot your eye out!

(Not all of the links are exactly what I used, but the discrepancies shouldnt cause you any trouble.)

Alright, ready to make a tool handle?  1/2" pipe is "supposed" to have a nominal ID of 5/8".  Mine did not.  Apparently, the manufacturer didnt get the memo.  So, I had two options here.  I could either put my piece on the wood lathe and free hand the cut or take it to my friends shop and borrow his metal lathe.  I chose the latter.  Here Im using a boring bar to open up the ID of my pipe.

After boring the ID to just the right size, I drilled and tapped two 1/4-20 holes for my set screws. Sorry, no picture.  I got too excited to finish up my new toy!

Note: Dont be like me and tap the threaded section of your pipe.  No, my drill didnt break, but there is barely enough wall thickness for your set screw to bite into.  However, just one set screw is holding my 5/8" gouge just fine.

Now, back at the home shop I brute forced the vinyl hose onto the pipe.  This kinda looks like a snake shedding in reverse huh?  This was by far the most time consuming part of the whole process.  I would recommend a heat gun and petroleum jelly.

Here Im making a bushing for my 3/8 detail spindle gouge.  Ive turned the OD of a piece of cherry so that it will be a press fit into the pipe.  Im now drilling out the bushing to accept the tang of the gouge.  I drill this slightly undersized as to have a good snug fit.  After this, I drilled the holes to allow my set screws to lock the tool in place.

Now, I make a pilot hole with an awl.  This allows me to drill the hole in the right spot.  Novel, I know...  The last picture is running the set screw into place before inserting the tool.  Trying to start the set screw through the hose with an allen wrench proved futile.

Back out the set screws before installing the tool.  Oh, the face? Yeah, I was goofing around after a long day at work.  I didnt think my wife was taking the picture yet...

At this point you will add the spacer and BBs, if you opt for it.  What is the spacer for? Good question.  The spacer isolates the BBs from the tool.  This way you can remove the tool for sharpening or to switch tools without your BBs running all over the floor.  Also, the 5/16 set screw is just threaded into the spacer to close the hole.  You could always just turn a small cylinder to fit the ID of your pipe and forgo the $1.96 to buy it at HD.  You may notice the tool Im using is from Thompson Lathe Tools.  I will go into further detail about these tools in another post, but let me just say for now that they are AWESOME!

3/8 Detail Spindle Gouge

5/8 Bowl Gouge

To buy a premade handle for your new lathe tools, its gonna cost you at least $45 for a decent one.  My total for this project with tax was $37.86.  When you consider that the most expensive item was the hose at $18.50 and I bought 10, Id say this was a pretty good project.  Just take a look at comparable handles and youll see that you cant even buy one for the cost of materials to make two.  That works for me! 

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